Monday, May 7, 2018

Phoenix 1600 Review (Hobbyking/Lanyu/Volantex)

The Quintessential RC Plane

Phoenix 1600 EPO Composite R/C Glider (Kit)

The Phoenix 1600 is an anomaly.   It's dirt cheap, built extremely well, and suffers from poor marketing and a couple of minor engineering missteps.   So, let's unpack what it really is.   It's a great plane for someone with intermediate building and flying skills.   This is not a trainer and not a good choice for a newbie.   There are so many planes on the market today that would be a better fit for a new pilot.   And yet, half the manual is devoted to teaching how to fly the plane.

The other issue is that there are a couple of design flaws that aren't fatal but are workarounds.  They have to do with the placement of the servos for rudder and elevator.   What I found works best was to take a file and file down part of the plastic on the fuselage to allow for the servos to turn freely in the proper position.

The largest single issue this plane has is the lack of good instructions.  In order to build this plane, you will need to hunt around on Youtube to find build videos.  I did write a post about mounting a motor to this plane and offered a couple of motors that will work with this plane.

What sets this plane apart is that you can fly it six channels.  One of the alternate builds is to make it a glider and skip the  motor all together.   It's far from a top-shelf gilder, but plenty of people use it for slope soaring. The other thing that sets it apart is build quality.  It's actually a very good build quality.  Again, it's not the best but its far superior to most of the planes I've seen in this price range.  The fuselage is a similar plastic that baby toys are made out of, so it's durable and not cheap to make.

If this plane cost three times as much I would say that it's not worth the price.  But, at this price, it's a FANTASTIC buy.


1. Documentation: 1  points out of 5 points possible.


The documentation is for the PNP and not the kit version.  There's a little bit there that is useful.  We live in an internet world these days and fairly good information to build this plane can be found online.  Thus, the poor documentation isn't a deal breaker.

2. Quality of Materials 20 points out of 20

Image result for phoenix 1600
It's a perfect score not because it's the best materials I've ever seen in a kit, but because it's the best materials I've seen in a kit of this price range. The foam is robust and the fuselage is spectacular.   The control horns get screwed in on both sides and they include things like the extensions for the servos.


3.  Build process  17 out of  20 points.


Other than the servos in the wings there isn't a lot of need for gluing.   If I were to build one for a friend I could have it together in an evening if I had the electronics ready to go before the plane arrived. Realistically,  it would be a fantastic rainy-day build because it would take most of a day to build from scratch.  I tend to like to build a few hours here and there so this plane would be something I would take about a week to build.    There are quirks to building this plane so it's best not to rush through it.

The two things that weren't obvious was the motor mount which I outlined in an article. The other thing was the servo placement.  It was odd, to say the least.  You'll find a pair of cut outs on the fuselage for the servos.  But they don't go there.  They go further back into a spot that doesn't look like it was designed for servos.  This spot works well, except. . .    One of the servo arms will hit the  side of the plane.  And, the standard servo sits up too high.   What it looks like building this plane is that it takes a 17g and 9g servo.  The interesting thing about the design of the plane is that you can assign a control rod to either the rudder or the elevators on the tail.  So, I thought about it logically.  If you have total control of ailerons the rudder is kinda an afterthought anyway.  Thus, the 9g servo got demoted to a rudder.  The larger 17g servo was for the elevators.  What I discovered was that if I trimmed off the end of the control arm it would just clear the side of the plane.  And then, with a little creative filing of the top of the edge of the plane (there is a lip) I could allow the rudder to turn freely.  At first I was fine without full control of the rudder, but in the end, I got full control of the rudder.

And that's really the extent of it, a lack of good instructions (which sadly is common) and a somewhat minor workaround with the servos inside the plane.  I did follow my own advice (which I am not always prone to do) and ran the ESC under the battery tray.  This left the battery tray free to mount batteries without wire getting in the way.



4. Flight Characteristics  30 out of 30


I can abbreviate my maiden flight in 3 letters. M, M, M.  Maiden Motor Meltdown.  This has nothing to do with the plane and has more to do with my speed controller or most likely culprit, the motor.  About a  year ago I bought this motor for the Phoenix 2000 and decided to go another direction.  In that time the motor has been discontinued at HobbyKing (hmmm).   I got somewhere between one half and 3/4s of a flight with the motor before it overheated and stopped working.  But, it was enough for me to form my own decisions and yes,  I will update this review with more experience. 

The basic design of this plane is something I've noticed about Volantex planes in general, they are heavy.  There isn't a lot of nuance with this plane, you build it, throw a 3S 2200mAh battery and take off.   But, because it's heavy I noticed at 1000KV with a 9x6 propeller  was a bit anemic.   I want a bit more power to get up to the sky.   Even if the motor is still working I want it out of this plane in favor of something with a bit more thrust.  I have a C-311 Leopard 2835/6T 1350KV on order.  The speed controller will be swapped out as well. 

The flight platform for this plane is good.  It's not a floater but may glide well with a bit more fine-tuning.  It is easy to fly and is very responsive.  Right out of the gate this was a plane that required hardly any trim.   I put a small amount of up trim in during the flight and the plane did very well.  It feels like it may be able to handle a bit of wind and still maintain control.    I don't have any planes that can reliably fly in my late afternoon Southern California wind.  Thus, this plane, though not one of my beloved floaters is still something that I can appreciate.

I was able to make the plane roll, loop and invert on the maiden flight.  There is a fair deal of excitement about this plane.  Of course, the million dollar question is about installing flaps.  And, that's where I start to object.  Flaps aren't a bad idea, if you really need them.  If you're flying in windy and turbulent areas then yes, by all means, you'll want something to slow down your plane.  But, if you are flying in the mild wind then it's just adding extra weight for something you don't really need.

I am glad to say that I really took my time to build this plane and the plane was perfect from the start.  I wished that the motor didn't quit because I need a few more flights to really get a good feel for the plane.   But, from the expereince I had, I really, really liked it.

The plane as a glider would be interesting.  It would make a good slope soaring plane.   But, that's a different type of flying and the gliders tend to get thrashed on the slopes.  Thus, this being robust and cheap is a good thing.   With a glider, I can see wanting to have flaps from day one. Gliding is its own sport and I think this would make a great first glider if I were to go that route.



5. Value 15 out of 15 points


For what you get for very little money this plane is an exceptional value.   You can work around the issues it has in the build process and add an excellent plane to your collection.





6. Ability to modify  8  out of 10 points.


You can put a variety of motors on the plane.  One guy wanted to put on a camera rig onto his Phoenix so he went with a lighter motor due to the extra weight on the nose.   Of course the ability to add flaps makes this plane more customizable.  My big mod was to paint the foam and laminate it.   I  went for a bright pink so that I could see it way up in the sky.   I really do like the paint scheme.

Though it's not tops on the ability to be modified it is still one of the more versitile planes on the market. 



Final Score 91 out of 100


With a score of 91 this is a good all around plane to kick around when you're ready for a 5 or 6 channel plane.  The 1600 is the same fuselage as the 2000 but has 400mm  (15.5 inches) less  wing length.    Having watched good videos from Allen Moore and Andrew Newton I am moving on to build another Phoenix 2000 as a glider.  It's not an immediate need as I've got my hands full of other build projects and HobbyKing  is out of stock on the 2000. 

I have opted for the Leopard 2835/6T 1350KV motor to power both of my Phoenixes. I will update this review as I get more experience with these planes.  But, overall I am beyond impressed at the value.  HobbyKing does stock replacement parts, but mostly in Hong  Kong which is far too expensive to ship to the United States.   It may be cheaper to buy another kit and salvage parts as you need them. 

The one good sign about the Phoenix is that Andrew Newton seems to have planes given to him left and right   He can't keep most of them.   So, what sticks around is what I pay attention to.  Andrew has the Phoenix in a regular plane and a slope soarer.  Allen Moore flew his Phoenix so much that he wore it out and built another one.    He has a slope soarer as well.  This is a guy who has a Bird of Time glider (huge an beautiful) but likes his Phoenix. These aren't endorsement deals, these are guys who fly what they like.

To me, the Phoenix glider would mean that I could get started in gliding with a plane that I can bash, crash, repair over and over again.  Slope soarers tend to take a lot of abuse.

Friday, May 4, 2018

Phoenix 1600 & 2000 Motor Mount Instructions & Motor Selection tips


The missing instructions



Image result for phoenix 1600

If you buy the Phoenix 1600 & Phoenix 2000 kit you'll find that the instructions are a bit light.  When it comes to mounting the motor there are two ways, the hard way and the easy way.  Since I own both planes I am proud to say I've done both.

The hard way


The holes on the standard crossbar that comes with most motors that fits this plane line up perfectly to the holes on the front of the white plastic cowl.   You can simply use a tape and die set to put in machine screw grooves into the metal then use the appropriately sized machine screw to secure the motor to the plane.  It's a bit of extra work but it works like a charm.

So, why am I even bringing this up?  If you bought the Phoenix 1600 in particular as  plug and fly  Andrew Newton has mentioned that the 750KV motor is a bit too underwhelming and switched it out for a similar motor that was 1000KV.  But, you may have a spare motor or two sitting around that would do the job with some slight modification. Find a cross bracket, tap it and use it.   You can't really get to it with nuts and bolts because the bottom of the motor will be difficult if not impossible to get to.

The Easy Way


In the kit there is a black plastic disc, a flat metal disc, and 9 screws.  4 are machine screws and 4 are similar to wood screws.  The black plastic is your motor mount.  There is a spot to run your motor wires through so that they don't rub against the motor.  The four machine screws are used to mount the motor.  Use Loctite to secure the screws in place  The vibration over time can loosen the screws.


Black plastic motor mount, notice cable run through the plastic?  Notice the metal disc in the background.?


On the outer parameter of the plastic disc are four screw holes that match up to the screw holes one the cowl.   Your job is to line them up for installation. This is the hardest part of the motor install.  When it's completed it looks like this.
Motor properly mounted.  The black plastic mount is inside the plane.



While you're at it.


The speed controller can stay above and sit next to your battery.  But you'll constantly be working around it.  Take a few extra minutes and get it out of your way once and for all.  Remove the batter tray and mount it under the battery tray.  I am going to include a video of some guy removing the tray.  Please note that there are four screws that hold the tray to wood glued to the side of the fuselage.  The guy in this video just rips it all out by the battery strap.  I found that if you remove the four screws and give a little firm pressure the top of the tray separates from the side mounts.  You can take his advice and remove the 41g ballast from under the tray.   My advice is to not to this before you have checked  the CG and flown the plane.   You don't want to risk making this plane tail heavy.  But yes, anything to make the plane lighter is a good thing. 



A tip about motors


There are a lot of motors that can work with this plane.  Whatever you use has to have a front facing shaft.  That means the shaft comes out the side where the wire are.  You can either buy motor that is front facing such as the Turnigy 2217 16turn 1050kv 23A Outrunner, or the  EMAX GT2215-09 1180KV 
  

Or, you can do a manual shaft reversal.




This guy is using an arbor press.   It works well for the task but most of us don't own one.  We should own a vice.  Simply do the same thing with a vice, but on the side you want the shaft to come out use a socket such as a 12mm socket to allow the shaft to come out the other side without letting the shaft get squeezed by the vice. (Visualize it, the shaft is getting pushed out one direction and it will show up on the other side.  You need the socket to allow space for it to pop through without touching the vice).  It takes a lot of force to move it from one side to the other.  You will doubt yourself the entire time you do it.  But it will work. 
Shaft reversal in vice, socket on left.


Warning-I've done this one 3 motors and on two of them the motor bearing came lose during flight  I use a collet that was made for wheels on landing gear to keep it in place once and for all.


Having done  the shaft reversal many times, and being comfortable with the process my feeling is it's worth going out of your way to find a motor where the shaft is reversed.



Motor considerations- 


Weight:


The optimum motor for this plane weighs around 80 grams.   You can get by with something that is 70g (EMAX GT2215-09 1180KV )  or 90 grams  The  Turnigy and DYS D3530 weigh 74 grams, but need a shaft reversal.  The good news is that you can buy this motor in a lot of different KVs.

If you make the nose too light then the tail will be too heavy.  This is a no-win situation. This isn't a plane you can add nose weight to easily.   If the nose is too heavy then you'll be auditioning lighter batteries to make it fly.   You may pick up bad flight characteristics like going into a spin when it stalls.   Thus, to be safe, keep the weight as clsoe to 70g as possible. 


KV:  


The D3530 comes in three different KVs.  1100, 1400, and 1700 KV.  It can accept 2 through 4 S batteries.  If you're not opposed to doing a shaft reversal this may be a neat little option.


The higher the KV the more speed performance you'll get from the plane which should make it fun if you're looking for speed. Of course your flights will be shorter.  If you plane of gliding you'll want a slower motor, such as 1000KV.


Searching for a new  spinner


Another avenue you'll find yourself running down is that the spinner that came with the plane may not fit on the shaft of your motor.  You'll be searching for a new one.  I believe 45mm is the diameter size of the spinner.  You'll need it to match your shaft size as well.  I use Gemfan spinners and propellers from Banggood.

Image result for gemfan aluminum spinner

Before you go down this road you can get by with a standard propeller.  Put one on that is the correct size for your motor and see how you like the setup.  The folding propellers simply add to the ability for this plane to glide a bit longer.    When you have the motor and proper propeller size you like you can then buy the spinner setup.  It's not hard to install.   The proper size for a 1000kv motor is 9x6.



Summing it all up


The Phoenix 1600 is a beloved plane.  For what you get, it's dirt cheap. You can leave the motor off and make it a slope glider.   You can 4-6 channels with so many features that you can fire up with most of the computerized radios such as crow and camber. 



This is an amazing plane, but it's not a beginner's plane.  They try to sell it like it is, but it's not.  So, take your time building it.  Chances are likely you have other planes.  Perhaps you live somewhere that winter keeps you indoors and you like working on a project that you put a few hours into each week.    Get the parts you want and get it set up right.  If you do your homework and take your time this will be a plane you'll enjoy for many years.



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